Monday, June 1, 2009

Ottawa Bachelor Party Trip

So, this past weekend, I went to Ottawa for my friend Alex’s bachelor party. I wasn’t expecting to be able to attend, as I was supposed to be on my Phase 3 Infantry Course. However, for those of you who don’t already know, I was medically taken off the course the day before it started and will now be spending the summer in Kingston.

Friday 29 May 09:

On Friday, I went to the train station to catch my 1200 train. I also booked tickets for the month of July. VIA rail is doing a promotion in which all military members can use the train for free as often as they want during the month of July. So, I am going to Ottawa the first weekend, Montreal the second, Toronto the third and Quebec City the last weekend of July. It will be a great month. So, I boarded the train, which arrived 10 minutes late, no big deal, I wasn’t in a rush, and found a seat next to some girl. I wasn’t planning on introducing myself, but she pulled out her laptop and put in BBC’s “Planet Earth”. So, I leaned over and said “I’m Alex, this may seem weird, but does your laptop have two headphone jacks”, to which she replied “I’m Katy, no it doesn’t, but we can just share mine”. Katy and I proceeded to watch the first episode of Planet Earth together, and it was amazing. I can’t wait to watch the rest of the episodes. The rest of the train ride was uneventful. Once in Ottawa, I got picked up by Scott, a friend of mine who just moved to Ottawa a few weeks ago. We went back to his place, dropped my gear, he changed out of uniform and we hit the town.

We wandered the Byward Market area for awhile and began to get a little hungry. So, we went to Highlander Pub, had some beer and dinner, at 4PM. Since we weren’t meeting up with Alex (the bachelor) and Steve (the best-man) until 10PM, we hit as many bars and pubs in Ottawa as we could. We went to The Brig (where we got free drinks), The Rainbow (where a really bad band was playing), the Cabin (totally empty at the time), Pub 101 (lame!), Patty Boland’s (pretty good), Cornerstones (really nice) and others. We had an interesting experience. Early in the night, we went into a bar called “The Lookout”, which was totally empty at the time. The service was great and the few people that were there were really nice. We went out onto the second story balcony, which overlooked the Market and hung out. Later, Alex texted me to ask where we were. So, I messaged back “The Lookout”. His response was “The Lookout? That is a gay bar … seriously it’s a gay bar”. So, we looked back through the door, into the bar, which had filled up while we were on the balcony and yes, it was definitely a gay bar. Everything started to click. We quickly finished our beers and moved on.

Eventually, we met up with Alex and Steve at Cornerstones. We had a bunch of drinks, Scott left to meet up with some other friends and we continued our pub crawl around the market. Eventually we went to McDonald’s and home. Nothing else happened ;).


Figure 1 - At the Parliament Buildings.



Saturday 30 May 09:

Saturday morning was a bit of a late start, but eventually I got moving, only to realise that Scott was not home. He stumbled in soon after, so we napped a bit and proceeded out for a much needed coffee. I was supposed to meet up with my friend Ashley around noon, so I called her, in order to sort out what we were going to do. Once we figured it out, I got a ride from Scott to Place D’Orleans and walked over to Ashley’s place. From there, we went out for Sushi with a bunch of her friends. We all ate far too much, but had a great time, plus it was delicious. From there, four of us (Ashley, Tara, Dave and myself) went climbing at an indoor gym called Coyote. It was really fun. Although, every time I go to Ottawa, I think I won’t climb, so I don’t bring my gear, and every time, someone wants to climb with me. I think from now on, I will bring my gear with me. From there, Ashley gave me a ride downtown. I wandered around until I met up with the bachelor partiers, who were out paintballing all afternoon. We had a great dinner at Vineyards in the Market. I met a bunch of Alex’s friends, family and soon to be family, that I hadn’t met before. They were all great. A hilarious coincidence occured at the the restaurant. The priest that will be marrying Alex was having dinner at the same restaurant. He made sure we all knew that God was always watching. After dinner, we went to Patty Boland’s for some drinks. Eventually, the Dad’s and a brother in law left. So, we continued drinking at Patty Boland’s … and nothing else happened … right ;).


Figure 2 - At the War Memorial.



Sunday 31 May 09:

Sunday morning was a bit of a late start. After two nights out, I was wiped. Eventually, I got up and Alex, Lynne (his fiancĂ©) and I met Alex’s dad for breakfast. It was a good meal and we reminisced about the night prior. Alex’s dad had to go back to Toronto and Alex and Lynne had errands to run, so they all left. I stayed downtown, as I was meeting my friends Nathan and Pudge for lunch. I toured around downtown and eventually sat on a bench by the War Memorial, which quickly turned into lying down. Soon, Nathan arrived, so we chatted. Then Pudge showed up, so we headed towards the Greyhound Terminal to check the schedule. A bus was leaving in an hour, so we went to Harvey’s for lunch. They took me back to the terminal and we unloaded the gear Pudge had brought up to Canada for me. I got on the bus to Kingston and headed home. Once home, I shared a cab with two others downtown. Got to my apartment and found the power to be out. Apparently, it had been out for several hours. So, I headed to my grandparent’s (who are out of town) house. I will likely spend the night here.


Figure 3 - Recovering from the night before.



Figure 4 - Relaxing on a bench at the War Memorial.



All in all a good weekend. I got to see old friends, make new ones, see Ottawa and picked up all my climbing gear. It was great.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

West Virginia Trip – Part 11 – The End

---- Current location – My Parent’s Condo, Norfolk, VA, USA - Temp: ~17DegC ----

I am sitting in a warm condo, looking out over the beach, writing this. It is a very different setting than the place I woke up in yesterday morning. I had to leave West Virginia several days earlier, due to logistical problems getting back to Kingston in time to leave for Phase Three Infantry.

The past couple of days in West Virginia were very rainy. It rained harder than it has my whole trip and climbing was definitely not possible. So, The Dans and I drove into Elkins, WV, on Sunday for lunch and a movie. We ate at “Scottie’s Hamburgers”, a greasy, greasy, spoon. I had the roast turkey sandwich, a monochromatic turkey, mashed potato, white bread and gravy concoction. We then moved on to the movie theatre and saw the new X-men movie. It was terrible. So terrible, it was funny. When the movie ended, we grabbed some groceries and headed home.


Figure 1 - Scottie's Hamburgers.


Once arriving home, we started building a fire. Everything was soaked, however, so we just poured Naptha all over it, lit it, and it eventually dried out. We had the best fire of the entire trip. Then we cooked dinner, a delicious curry. I cooked a turkey leg on the coals and we threw that in, as well. Geoff, a guy who is on a 6 month climbing trip, joined us for dinner and scrabble. It was fun.


Figure 2 - The turkey leg, on the coals and in a beer can reflector.



The next day (Monday), we drove the hour back to Elkins, so we could have breakfast at Scottie’s (we regretted not getting breakfast the day before). We immediately headed back, as I was being picked up at noon. My Dad came to get me and we went back to Norfolk, VA, together. Once there, we ate dinner, watched TV, etc. I then slept in a bed for the first time in a few weeks – it was pretty good … I guess.


Figure 3 - Across from my parent's place.



Figure 4 - On the beach, this morning.


Now, I am just sorting out stuff for the rest of my summer, the Infantry course, other work, school, etc. I am also hoping to spend some time on the beach (if the weather gets better) and see some old friends. I hope you have all enjoyed the blog – look out for the epilogue.


Figure 5 - Obligatory foot in sand/water picture.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

West Virginia Trip – Part 10 – The Party

---- Current location – The Gendarme Climbing School, Seneca Rocks, WV, USA - Temp: ~9DegC ----

Unfortunately, this post will not nearly be as epic as previously implied, sorry.

Today, the weather is the worst is has been the entire trip. Usually, it rains all night and drizzles during the day. Last night, it started raining and is still pouring harder than I have seen yet.

Yesterday, however, the weather was slightly better. It rained a bit in the morning and eventually dried up. So, The Dans and I headed out to do Conn’s East (5.5), a three pitch route that would take us to the South Summit. The approach was heinous. We slogged our way up to the base of Seneca, from which point we had to do some exposed scrambling to get to the base of the climb. Chico (the dog) did not particularly enjoy this, so we had to hand him up to each other. Once at the base of the climb, we dropped our gear and scrambled into The Gunsight for lunch. It was quite the beautiful day. We dropped back down to the base of the climb and racked up. I lead the first pitch, a long diagonal traverse along a giant flake. Rope drag was incredible on this pitch. The Dans followed and Dan R set up to take the next pitch. Once we all arrived there, Dan FM took us to the summit. It was a great view and The Dans had really wanted to get up there, so that was good. We double rope rapped to the base and pulled the ropes. Dan R’s brand new 70m got stuck in a constriction about 40feet above us (D’oh!). So, Dan FM got to climb the first pitch of Conn’s East Direct (5.8) to retrieve it. Once we got the rope down we walked South along Broadway Ledge and rappelled off – with Chico, of course. This was quite the ordeal. We had to build him a harness, shove him into my pack and then Dan R rapped off with him. It was pretty awesome. Once back on the trail, we made a slippery descent and headed off to the party.



Figure 1 - Lunch in the Gunsight.



Figure 2 - Dan FM at the summit.



Figure 3 - Me topping out.



The party was pretty fun, but not nearly as epic as we imagined it would be. The beer was pretty good – and free! The food was delicious – and free! The prizes were great – and free! But, there was something missing. It just didn’t seem like a crazy party. The three of us cleaned up when it came to prizes. Dan R won a chalkbag, Dan FM won a Misty Mountain harness and a pair of socks, and I won a Black Diamond #1 C4 Cam – schwing! The party died down around midnight, so we all went up to the campsite and fell asleep.

Now, it is pouring rain and we are trying to figure out what to do. Hopefully we figure something out.


Figure 4 - Dan R rapping with Chico.

Friday, May 1, 2009

West Virginia Trip – Part 9 – The Dans’ Arrival

---- Current location – The Gendarme Climbing School, Seneca Rocks, WV, USA - Temp: ~19DegC ----

Yesterday was a pretty boring day. There was not much climbing to be done, due to the weather. So, Matt, Massey and I set up for the big Cinco De Mayo party. We had to put up a big tent, a small tent, set up the barbeques, etc. Once we were done, Matt and Massey wanted to go work some harder routes that are overhanging and out of the rain. I tagged along. I didn’t really feel like climbing, that much, for some reason, anyway. It went well and we came back to the shop. From there, we decided on burgers for dinner. So, we headed to Yokum’s restaurant. We grabbed a late night (after closing) burger from Jim (which was delicious, as usual). When we returned to the shop, we ran into none other than The Dans, who had arrived several hours earlier from Kingston. I took off with them to the campsite. We tried to get a fire going, but everything was too wet and we didn’t really have the energy. So, we went to sleep.



Figure 1 - How Seneca has, unfortunately, looked lately.



Today, we woke up and made a very scrumptious breakfast. We made bacon, scrambled eggs and toast (awesome!). After breakfast, we decided to climb Ecstasy, a three pitch 5.7 (classic Seneca route). So, we headed down to the climb, with all our gear. As soon as we arrived, it started raining. We hung around the base of the climb hoping beyond hope that it would stop, which it did not. So, we trundled back to the shop in shame. Once there, we left our gear and went back to the tents to grab our laptops and Scrabble. We trudged our way back to the shop (in the rain) and got some internet time in, plus played a game of Scrabble. After which, we grabbed a sandwich from Yokum’s Deli for lunch. It was not very delicious, unlike most of the food around here. We sat around a while longer. Dan R took a nap. Until, we were tired of sitting around, so we headed to The South End with plans to climb Candy Corner (5.5), whether it was raining or not. We got there and it seemed fine, so Dan FM lead the first pitch. We had planned on top roping it, but decided to go on an adventure. So, we set up for multi pitch. I followed. Dan FM and I tried to haul Chico (Dan R’s dog) up with us, but failed. Chico had to stay on the ground. Dan R then thirded. I set up to lead the next pitch, but realised we were at the wrong bolts. My pitch ended p being about 10m and required no protection. Dan R lead the next pitch to the base of Bee Sting corner (his first multi-pitch trad lead – woohoo). From there we double rope rappelled off, collected Chico and headed home.


Figure 2 - Me at the first belay of our Candy Corner link up.




Figure 3 - Dan R and I at the second belay.



Figure 4 - Dan FM at the base, post climb.



Tomorrow, we plan on hitting up some more routes and partying our faces off (we have to show these Southerners how Canadians do it). Be ready for an epic blog soonest.

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

West Virginia Trip – Part 8 – The Hellbender Burrito

---- Current location – The Gendarme Climbing School, Seneca Rocks, WV, USA - Temp: ~18DegC ----

Hi everyone. Unfortunately, there has not been much of interest going on in the past couple of days.

Yesterday, I decided to head up to the cliff by myself and practice some anchoring techniques. So, I loaded up my pack and started the trek up to the East Face. Along the way, I ran into Andrew. So, we hooked up and decided to walk up and see what we could see. It was a long, long, walk up. We got a little confused with the route and had to rope up for the last portion, but that was OK. Once we arrived on the ledge we were looking for, we ran into Enis and Estevan (a German and Hungarian), who were climbing a 5.10 up there. Once they had a top rope set up, we both attempted it and fell off (oh well). Once they took it down, they were done for the day. We decided to pack it in, as well, since it was so HOT (30degC+). So, we walked along the ledge and double rope rappelled all the way off.

Today, it was pouring rain all day. So, I hung out at the shop, pretty much all day. We then drove to Davis, WV, for a burrito at a place called Hellbender Burritos. It was delicious. Then we hit up a grocery store.

Like I said, the past two days have been highly uneventful. Hopefully the pace around here will increase when The Dans arrive, plus there is the Cinco de Mayo party this weekend.

Just because I don’t have any good pictures, here are the past few meals I have eaten ;).



Figure 1 - Steak cooked on the coals, with corn.




Figure 2 - Steak fried with mushrooms.



Figure 3 – Me going stir crazy with no one around and nothing to do.


Saturday, April 25, 2009

West Virginia Trip – Part 5 – The Not So Restful Rest Day

---- Current location – The Gendarme Climbing School, Seneca Rocks, WV, USA - Temp: ~29DegC ----

Today, I was planning on taking a rest day, after the hard routes we have been climbing the past few days. So, I went down to the Gendarme Climbing School to check my e-mail, chat, etc. After about thirty minutes or so, someone came around asking if anyone needed a partner. After awhile, I said I could climb with him. So, I ran up to the campsite to grab my gear. Apparently, while I was gone, Matt and Massey recommended me as a partner (that was cool of them). So, I linked up with Tim and we set off toward the rock.

We started off on The Burn (5.8), which Tim lead. I didn’t want to lead today, since it was my rest day. It went well, Tim seemed solid. We moved on to Marshall’s Madness (5.7). This was a hand crack the whole way up (AKA my worst enemy). So, Tim set up a top rope and I worked my way up. It was good training for Fred’s Folly, back in Kingston. Feeling confident in each other, we moved on to Pleasant Overhang (5.7), a massive three pitch overhang traverse. It was intense. The first pitch was just a flake, too easy. The second pitch (under the overhang) was ridiculously exposed, but easy. The third pitch was a bit of a scramble up to the summit. It seemed like the hardest moves on this route were into and out of the belay stations (which were super sketchy - rusty piton style). I finally got to top out on the summit, so that was cool. I rapped down with to guys and left Tim to climb with a group of three.



Figure 1 - Tim at the South Summit of Seneca.


Once I got down, the two guys and I grabbed some Gatorades and rehydrated. I went back up to the campsite and met up with the other two Canadians (Pat and Bill). We started planning our bivy on the South Summit tomorrow night. Luckily, I was up there today, so I recced a campsite. We plan on heading out around 4PM tomorrow and climbing up the Gunsight to the South Summit. It should be a good time, and a great way for Pat and Bill to cap off their trip. It should be an awesome experience, the site I scoped out seems like a pretty good spot. Plus, the view of the sunset and sunrise from the summit will be great. So, don’t expect a report tomorrow, I will be set up on the summit of Seneca.

Friday, April 24, 2009

West Virginia Trip – Part 5 – The Shower

---- Current location – The Gendarme Climbing School, Seneca Rocks, WV, USA - Temp: ~29DegC ----

Day five in Seneca Rocks, WV, has been spectacular. 29DegC, sunshine and a breeze. I will need to start climbing in shorts, if it continues like this (which it is supposed to). I have been climbing in pants up to this point and was blistering in them all day today. Unfortunately, I didn’t take many pictures today, sorry.

Today, I went climbing with Matt. Massey had to take some clients out to the rock. We met up around 9AM, racked gear and headed off with the plan to climb Ecstasy (5.7), a 3 pitch Seneca classic. Unfortunately for us, Chad (from the other guide service) was taking a client up it, so we moved on. We went around the corner to a lower section of the East Face than we were on yesterday. We set up to do a link up of TNT (5.8-) and Bee Sting Corner (5.7). I lead the first pitch (TNT), which was a run out, bolted, line. Those of you that know me well, know that I rarely swear, but I was shitting myself up this route. Even though it was bolted, the run outs were nuts (or at least I thought so). Apparently, Seneca bolted lines are known for this, I had no idea. I set up an anchor off some bolts to the right and Matt followed me up. He carried on to the second pitch (Bee Sting Corner) and set up off a tree. I followed, much more confidently now that I was on top rope. We rappelled down quickly, but soon realised that the second rap wasn’t going to reach the ground, so we had to downclimb the last 20 feet or so, oh well. After that route, we ate some lunch and did a route that is not in the guidebook, we think is called M&M (5.8). We pumped it out in short order and moved back to Ecstasy. There was a line forming by this point, so we moved past and hopped on Ecstasy Junior (5.4). It was an easy ascent, but the hardest 5.4 I have ever done. It was a large, over hanging, crack system that seemed as if it would let loose at any moment. We made it up and chatted with Tom, the head guide from the other guide service, and rapped off. This was the last climb of the day, as Matt had to open up the shop at 4PM. On the walk back, it was so hot, we both stuck our heads in the river to cool off. It was great, the water was frigid and it felt good to get that first layer of sweat off my face and hair.


Figure 1 - Me at the first anchor on Ecstasy Junior.


After sorting out our gear, I took the short walk up a hill to my tent and decided to take my first shower since arriving. Up until this point, it had been too cold and rainy to do this. It felt great. Washing all the sweat and grime off myself, I felt like a new person. After taking the shower, I put away my gear, grabbed some beers and my laptop and am now sitting on the porch of the shop typing this blog post.

All in all, today was a great day. Be prepared for more adventure, the crowds are starting to arrive for the weekend, there is talk of bivying on the summit Sunday night and best of all … “The Dan’s” plan to be here on Wednesday. Now that I have had the grand tour of this place, we should be able to quickly get on some of the classic routes here at Seneca Rocks.

Figure 2 - Me, post climbing, with Seneca in the background. Like I said, not a lot of pictures today.